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Charlie

Building bigger bases

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Latest painting project is done and, unlike my last effort I have remembered to take so work in progress photos as I went along. I don't normally take photos as I'm working but a couple of people of late have asked so here goes.

Why build a bigger base at all? In this case because I'm starting to paint a new Hunters team but I also hade one eye on the winter painting contest and that rather left me thinking I need something that really stands out but will still work on a gaming table. Building up gave me more room to decorate but also let me overhang the area normally occupied by a gamming base without getting in the way of measuring aids or other bases.

this is what I came up with.....

GNfTBHx.jpg      

What follows is something of a step by step of how I built this base.

Ok the first thing I did was prep Hearne, assemble him and lightly glue him to a 40mm base for when I painted him. I do this first because it gives any glue or green stuff I've used plenty of time to dry .

step one. find an other 40mm base and a candle!

Gyff8aa.jpg

WTF? answer - it shapes well and has a bit of weight to it. Herne is a big lad and putting him up off of the table is asking for him to fall over. this one also has a shape that is slightly wider at the top than the base so giving me I little more room to work.

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Wick out. just pulls straight through.

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Add more weight. Hearne is a big lump after all. this is a fairly dense ball bearing from a washing machine. hole gouged into base of candle before it is then attached to the gaming base.

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Cut cave shape into wax.

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PVA and sand for areas of exposed rock.

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small bits of wire pushed into wax for icicles

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A few rocks for the top and PVA brushed on to wire to build up the ice.

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Undercoat by hand after sealing the whole thing with a layer of PVA.

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Paint ice and snow now because it will be harder to work with once you start on the top.

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Nothing looks more like trees than small bits of tree. just have to make a couple of adjustments...

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cut and pin to achieve new shape twig.

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And the same at the bottom to attach tree to base.

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Like so.

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Add climbing plants to break up the large area of grey rock face. This stuff can be picked up at most hobby stores that cater to model railway fans. woodland scenic produce it. I found however that the flower arraigning area in my local hobby craft had the same thing. it was called "moss effect decoration" and for some reason cost less than the same stuff packaged for gamers. go figure.

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Grass. These are from army painter.

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Last job. Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow. this was from GW. I find with snow it works best to build up light layers rather than go to heavy to soon as it can smother other details.

Final step was to give the ice a heavy coat of gloss varnish and touch up the highlighting on the rocks in the middle of the ice.

And that's how its done. I hope its of interest to some and maybe even helps try something new. there is a lot more space on a model base than some people realise ;)

 

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9 hours ago, Malritch said:

Thank you very much for sharing that... very very good!

 

49 minutes ago, dwhite87 said:

super happy you posted this.

thank you very much

Your welcome guys. Happy someone found it of interest.

 

5 hours ago, Zozo said:

Amazing!!!!!

Thanks

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Hadn’t thought of using a candle as a block to carve!

How does paint stick to it? Just needs a good solid coat, or does the wax need a primer rather than any old paint?

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2 minutes ago, Mako said:

Hadn’t thought of using a candle as a block to carve!

How does paint stick to it? Just needs a good solid coat, or does the wax need a primer rather than any old paint?

Before I painted it I sealed the whole thing in PVA glue. So in effect I was panting on to that rather than wax. Took a couple of coats to get an even coverage but nothing more than that. I've not risked spraying over it because I didn't want to risk a reaction between the wax (if there was still some exposed) and the solvent. In theory if the glue seal is good spray would work.

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5 hours ago, The Hieb said:

Absolutely Brilliant! The concept, sculpting, painting, color scheme it’s all top notch. Thanks for sharing. 

Your welcome. Hope you found it useful. 

If people are interested I'll do something along the same lines with future builds and conversation work. 

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31 minutes ago, Charlie said:

Your welcome. Hope you found it useful. 

If people are interested I'll do something along the same lines with future builds and conversation work. 

Definitely :)

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Next project is up and running. This base is for young Theron. He is still getting finishing touches added but as this post is about bases I thought id put this next step by step up now.

Mysterious ice pool base.

DydWfyG.jpg

Strait off the bat there are two things that you cant see in this picture. one is that the internal light flickers rather than being static. two the picture doesn't do justice to how much the lighting inside the base increases the felling of real depth in the water. if I can find a way to photograph it better I will.

So where do you start with an internally lit 30mm base?

really small electrical parts is where

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This came as a single bag kit from Zinge. they make a lot of useful parts and accessories. this sample pack was only 3 or 4 quid (I've had a couple of them sitting in a draw for a while so cant remember the exact cost)

I use a normal pair of clippers from my modelling tools to trim the wires to length.

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And it fits something like that. I probably could have made things easier for myself by ordering a could solder pen but I'm impatient so muddled through without.

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And the bulb sits on top like that. as you can see the first problem is that LEDs are really bright. not really helpful when I want "mystical glow"

The solution to this is to defuse the light with a latex, plastic cover. (also from Zinge)

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These come in a variety of shapes and sizes. drill a small hole in the plastic and it fits right over the LED.

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Now it glows.

Next job is to get around the fact that the battery housing is slightly deeper than the plastic base. All I've done is cut two 30mm disks of card. cut a space in them for the housing and attach them to the gaming base.

 C3HEjW1.jpg

The card I use I get from the local craft shop. I think its intended use is mounting photos. its really good for models as it cuts well and can be sanded to give a smooth finish.

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Next job is building the basic shape of the base. I use Polly filler for this as its cheep and easy to work with.

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Two things to remember if you are going to use Polly filler in this way. one is build up in stages. Filler is very soft so too much will slump out of shape. two. once you have a shape and its dry cover the whole thing in a couple of coats of PVA glue. Filler on its own crumbles really easily and in this case we also want to add a water effect that will just soak into the dry filler if its not sealed first.

Next add sand for exposed rock areas.

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I picked out a couple of larger bits of gravel to give a bit of detail to the bottom of the pool. Then added some reeds.

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These are bristles cut from and old decorating paint brush.

Then paint.

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I've also added a small jewel for more detail in the bottom of the pond.

At this point we start to add the water effect resin. I got this bottle from Woodland scenic. its a little more expensive than buying the dry grains and preparing  your own but I find its worth the cost for the not having to mess about. also I've hade the same bottle for over a year and its not dried out so it keeps well.

xTi4Dtp.jpg

The syringe is from a kids cough syrup and is ideal for adding small quantities of resin. when you do this the trick is to add a small amount at a time and let it settle and dry before adding the next layer. If you have never used this stuff before it can do some odd things when used in a small amount like this. it will often dry in a bowl shape, clinging to the side of the space you want to fill. it may also develop holes where air has worked its way out. Don't panic! as Douglas Addams once said. just keep building up the layers and all will be well.

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About half way full is a good time for extra details like fish.

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Fill to top.

Next we need ice.

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This is the lid of a plastic take out tub. cut into small parts and glued in with PVA.

Add the same tufts and shrubs as used on Hearne for a touch of continuity.

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 Finish with snow

IpBZWys.jpg

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3 hours ago, masterkdog said:

Thats it, I quit!!! Seriously bro amazing work.

Cheers.

Don't quit. Learn. Add to what you already do. Make something even better.

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I really like these. I’m terribly guilty of doing quite simple bases on gaming pieces, but this is a great kick up the backside to do more scenic stuff and display pieces!

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4 hours ago, Mako said:

I really like these. I’m terribly guilty of doing quite simple bases on gaming pieces, but this is a great kick up the backside to do more scenic stuff and display pieces!

Good to hear. 

Personally I feel the base is about 40% of the model for me. 

I really like a lot of your work already so I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

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