Jump to content
Mako

Mako's Expert Procrastination Thread

Recommended Posts

It’s remarkably refreshing to do, I’d recommend it to anyone that needs to shake up their painting approach a bit.

Stuff all that realism malarkey, impressionism is where it’s at :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any chance you can explain/tutorial this method? Not really ever come across it before and you gave me a cool idea for a spare mini I have (its not an otter).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, masterkdog said:

Any chance you can explain/tutorial this method? Not really ever come across it before and you gave me a cool idea for a spare mini I have (its not an otter).

I can try :D

I'll have to clean up another butcher, but that's not a major crisis. Probably do one of the resins I have, so I don't have to sit and polish up all the surfaces of a metal... Boar, perhaps. Really I should do Fillet as I want to get her ready for use, but Boar is probably a better example!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
29 minutes ago, Zerachial said:

wait so are you telling me you painted an entire miniature in just one day!!! :P

 

(maybe I should investigate this... :D )

I wish! The idea was quick, execution less so ;)

Start to finish, painting him was three sessions of a couple of hours each, over three days. It’s technically doable in a day, even for me, but I get distracted so easily and then real life starts needing paperwork signing...

:D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Haven't had chance to get much painting done, but I have prepped and primed a few models so I figured now was a decent time to share the basic planning concept for Boiler, sticking with the en camaieu red work:

XWGY6JL.jpg

Because I wanted to be able to get the colour saturation up higher than I usually would, I primed in minitaire Bark. The warmer brown makes building up reds easier, as it leaves a bit of warmth underneath.

I still did a top down zenithal layer of white to help make the colours on those surfaces brighter, but rather than being just directly top down I also made sure that I got most of his face - this is the focal point of the model, so it wants to have the most contrast and saturation. 

The final panel has the rough colour fade that will run across the whole model. Hopefully it's fairly obvious how the two tone primer and the overall colour shift makes the face stand out, but it'll be more evident as I start getting paint on there too with a bit of luck :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Been doing a little work on boiler today, mostly just getting the basics down:

SpDSMUC.jpg

You can see I started with the focal point, and every so often I've gone back and pushed the contrast on it a bit further. I'm finding that useful for balancing everything out, letting me avoid too much contrast in less important areas. Also means I can retouch areas, or add in some darklining to split things up if need be. I don't like dark lining generally, but in limited palettes it can be useful. 

Speaking of palettes, this is my wet palette before and after a session. I don't often use it as I don't consider it necessary for most painting, but since I'm using the same colours for a long period and its warm here, it makes life easier.

WpLxtw3.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is a crazy good idea Mako :D
Just as I was wondering how to get that sweet moonshine effect on Falconers and maybe Hunters later. That is how I'd do it if You only let me steal that idea a bit.
Great painting!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been intensely focussed on painting this last day or two. The results of which are a (mostly) mathematically determined average Mortician squaddie :P

X7lupax.jpg

Technically, they also need two character plays (both costing 1, one range S and one 8", and two traits, with small elements of movement tricks, some damage/take out elements, and mostly control related - enemy movement control/reduction is one of the more common aspects). But those are a bit trickier to do, as there are repeated elements but a lot more variation than there is in stat lines! And the playbook was tricky enough, having to work out all the elements and then get them to fit into the right space...

So yeah... productive painting time :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, speedfreek said:

No way Average Moe has 3/6 Kick...

You’re right, it should be 2/6. Typo!

Which I have now fixed :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finished up Boiler, so here's the final images:

2oOn9mb.jpg

I used a very dark colour for the straps around the body to break up the areas of the model a bit more, then started building up the metals. the third picture is him effectively finished, but there's a bit of work to do - his focal point is spread down the lower face and front arm, and along his back arm up to the axe. That's not quite working for me, so I glazed the arms darker to break those areas up. I then pushed the face highlights a touch further, and added in some bright points in the hair to make the upper part of his head brighter. Didn't matter if the gloves were different shades, or if his hair gained orange only in the fringe, as it's all about the light. That leaves his face and the upraised axe as more isolated areas, drawing focus. 

Boiler's not the easiest model for it, as the goggles combined with the tiny face are a bit awkward, but it still works - the highest contrast is on the two key areas of the model, surrounded by darker areas, with the vast sea of red broken up by dark lining.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks folks :)

She’s quite good fun to paint, althogh I did have a few issues with the skin. Had to do a fair bit of extra layering to get a nice pale tone I liked. The snake took two goes too, because the first one was a boring green thing. It was a bit frustrating that the scales were sculpted on across most of the back, but not the belly or some of the bigger curves, but that was fixable with a nice pointy brush and some patience.

@Nykolae - the trick I use is to hold the model in one hand (I have them on a pin vice so I’m not touching the painted areas), get the brush in the other, and then cross your wrists so the insides are against each other. That puts model and brush in roughly the right places, and means if one hand moves the other goes with it. Then my hands can shake all they like, they’ll be doing it in time with each other so it won’t matter (aside from sometimes making it hard for my eye to follow) :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/21/2018 at 4:00 PM, Mako said:

 

@Nykolae - the trick I use is to hold the model in one hand (I have them on a pin vice so I’m not touching the painted areas), get the brush in the other, and then cross your wrists so the insides are against each other. 

Sounds like a sweet trick. 

But don’t understand at all. 

Can you take a picture?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It’s a bit tricky to get a photo of, but I’ll try to explain it a different way while I see if I can figure out how to get a good shot :)

Draw a dot on the inside of each wrist, where it meets the bottom of your palm. Pick up the model and brush, place your wrists together so the dots touch, then turn them both (keeping the dots touching) so the brush hand is on top and the model hand underneath. The little finger on your brush hand will basically be sat over your model hand’s thumb, with your hands/arms forming an X.

Basically, you’re bringing both arms in front of you with the model hand palm up and the brush hand palm down, then putting the inside of your wrists against each other.

Now, if I can only find a way to get good photos of both my hands... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×