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Mako

Mako's Expert Procrastination Thread

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1 hour ago, Mako said:

Might do one blacksmith so I can properly assess the new material (I'll break down all three available materials into different categories and score them if people are interested in my opinions) and try out my possibly insane colour scheme :P 

I, for one, would be very interested in your thoughts on the matter!

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8 hours ago, Mako said:

When I get back from gencon, I have to make a tough choice - finish the morticians 6, or paint a blacksmith...

Might do one blacksmith so I can properly assess the new material (I'll break down all three available materials into different categories and score them if people are interested in my opinions) and try out my possibly insane colour scheme :P 

I'd be interested too, I've got reservations about the new plastics, but as I've yet to see any first hand it'd be good to have a painters objective view. Rather than knee jerk reactions to the rapidly snapped pics on Facebook.

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I did have a quick half game tonight, Ferrite and iron are fast (and I managed to get his momentous 7 on the charge twice, which is not the best use of him...). Cinder was fun (taking out harmony from behind the screening models :) ), and I used sledge and anvil really really badly!

Definitely got to get paint on one when I get back, I want to use them again :P

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@Mako, do you have a simple, but effective, method of painting faces and hair? These two are what's letting me down currently. The simpler the better. Quick and easy is the name of the game. Cheers.

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9 minutes ago, Selfy said:

@Mako, do you have a simple, but effective, method of painting faces and hair? These two are what's letting me down currently. The simpler the better. Quick and easy is the name of the game. Cheers.

Not the one who wasasked, but I have one cool advice. As stupid or strange it might sound at first, try watching some make-up tutorials for contouring from your streaming service of choice. This gives you some idea about the defining facial features so you can focus on them when painting faces.

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It seems the phrase "phone interview" has the odd side effect of delaying my replies, I half wrote this days ago :D

Faces are hard, but only because they're small and important - most areas are one or the other. I don't necessarily do this exact method every time (because I'm an idiot :P ), but it is the simplest I've tried.

Eyes first - use a pale grey/cream, like Vallejo model colour deck tan. White makes them look really wide and staring. Paint the eye area and down onto the cheekbones (best part of this method is not having to follow the eye shape accurately). Then paint a thin black line down the centre of the white bits, through the eye and onto the cheek. Making it a line not a dot makes it easier to keep it narrow and centred. With your original eye colour, paint a sweep horizontally under each eye across the cheekbones to get rid of the black that's below the eye area. If you want you can paint a thin black/brown line above the eye, for eyelashes and to narrow the white area. As an advantage, that white cheek area and the dark above the eye will give you some free shading and highlights when your flesh tone goes on.

Then you can paint the skin and only have to be neat round the outer edges of the eye, easier than painting them in later. A hint of blue in the shadows under the chin, a cream highlight on the nose and brow and a pinkish cream highlight on the cheeks (which can be a very thin red-flesh glaze over the same highlight as the nose) brings life to the colours if you want to get technical.

Details last - only paint the lower lip, and unless they're wearing a lot of lipstick the colour is your skin midtone with a tiny dot of red in it. Anything other than those two things tends to result in clownface in my experience  (same goes for any scars or tattoos - always mix the colours you're using into your flesh tones, don't paint them on neat).

Mostly though, it's looking at how light falls on faces - cheekbones, nose, chin line and brow are all paler, lower cheek area, under the nose and chin, and round the eyes are darker. That's obvious stuff, but there are things to remember like making the shadows/highlights a bit stronger and sharper for men than women, adding a pale grey to the midtones and highlights washes out the skin a bit for older flesh, and using leather and olive colours as glazes (or mixed into the midtones) to add a tan or give more Mediterranean type skin. 

Above all, skin is a complex mix. Painting one colour, highlighting with another and shading with a single wash is not going to get you the best results. Glazes and very soft washes of reds, blues, browns, greens, greys and so on are what make it come to life. That's why the one pot basic flesh colours often look a bit cartoony and lifeless.

I used to have a lovely step by step process for skin, that I used when I wrote tutorials (which I may be able to find if people want to see it). My new method involves the scalecolour flesh set, a zenithal grey/offwhite primer setup, and probably several dozen very thin glazes of 6-10 different colours going backward and forward through the colours, so while I really like the results it's not great if you want to finish stuff quick or take any pictures in the middle stages!

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Oh, and because I forgot - I've started working on Sledge (not much, because I have a busy week apparently :) ). First impressions under the file and knife are good, the casts are about as easy to clean as metals, though any big mould lines come off smoother on the plastics and filing doesn't leave toothmarks on the surface. Also, no cooling related pitting/roughness in the flat surfaces that needs filing and putty coating, and no excess glue blobs from assembly.

Also, because I want fancy bases, I needed to cut him loose - that was really simple with how they've been designed and glued (as opposed to SDE, where I snapped a cutlery knife in two trying to prize something off its base). Clippers to cut off the recesses under the bases, a quick poke round the exposed foot pin with a knife to weaken any glue down the sides of it, then a bit of careful prying loose and he popped right off with both foot pegs still intact and no bending, gouging or even base damage.

Z3PpwRD.jpg

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9 minutes ago, Zerachial said:

Wait so they're pre-glued to the base but are cast as two distinct pieces? That's interesting. 

More than two pieces, most of the models are multi-part too from the look of them. They come ready to play out the box, which meant I got a game in at gencon with my new set, but they're definitely not naff one piece casts for sure :) 

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I suspect so, the farmer sculpts don't look like they're viable as single pieces (well, some might be, but not all of them). 

I'm doing a full assessment of them from a lot of different angles, once I get Sledge primed and dab some paint on I'll be able to finish it up and will post it then. So far though, the convenience of assembled has been great and the inconvenience of slightly softer detail and taking off the bases only minor (bordering on trivial), so it's going well. That could all change when the brushes come out, but I'm hopeful :)

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Right, after finishing up a rather large cake I've had time to get paint onto a blacksmith. So without further delay, here's the reveal of my colour scheme for them:

YnvAG77.jpg

I do so enjoy subtle colour schemes :P

 

And for those still curious, my more thorough breakdown of the plastics and how they compare is here - 

 

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On ‎8‎/‎11‎/‎2017 at 5:27 PM, Mako said:

Final pre-gencon update time! I had a bunch of stuff to do before I could finish, so I didn't hit my target of a fully painted team - Silence is only primed, and Dirge is still on the sculpting table. But I did get Ghast finished, complete with scarred skin, and painted up the goal.

QpIgCiU.jpg

6ploYlh.jpg

 

And a group shot, without the ball as I forgot I'd done that...

M4A6d22.jpg

Love this paintjob.

Especially that you're using the striking colours and yet manage to get them so muted.

Superb :)

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Thanks :)

It's a new development in my painting, to get vibrant colours without the massive saturation issues. Working over a zenithal grey/white basecoat with glazes, never putting a solid colour coat down, has really worked out.

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Yeah, he has a good angry face if you're careful which features you pick out. I didn't want him looking too happy as he hit people with hammers :D

It's not the quickest metals I've ever done, but it does have a certain elegance to it - I like my teams to be unusual, after all!

(although the chain took ages, and I hope there isn't too much of it on the others...)

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1 hour ago, Kueller said:

Best Blacksmith player I have seen done! (:

Cheers! Though it's not a huge field at the moment, what with only 400 copies kicking about :D

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6 hours ago, Mako said:

 

(although the chain took ages, and I hope there isn't too much of it on the others...)

I was impressed with the armour and hammers, but wowed by the chain and buckles. For your sanity I hope there isn't much chain on the others too lol. 

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Wow - just wow. Without wanting to take up too much space by quoting specific images:

thank you for one of the most inspirational threads on painting Guild Ball miniatures. I can't get over how smooth your color transitions are and how far my own painting skills differ from what I can see here. Keep it up! :)

also ... need to get my hands on Blacksmiths now. damn. :P 

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@Doc from the look of it, I have more chainmail and chains to do on Cinder and anvil... aargh. But I'm in too deep to back down now!

@Zirenius thanks! It's taken a long time and probably far too much practice to get to this point :D  

 

Hopefully get time for the last touches on Sledge in the next day or so, I'd like to get him ready for basing at least!

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