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      Union in Chains Pictures   10/14/2017

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Larhendiel

Paint job longevity

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I'm relatively new player to this game, I got my models painted and covered with layer of quick shade and varnish, but after several games I noticed chips at most of mu models pointy ends, this game requires a lot of stress on models with all those dodges and pushes I guess. I hope that transition from metal to plastic may be good for paint job durability

However for now, how do you protect your painted models?
 

 

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I use Citadel's Lahmian Medium to seal them and store them in foam. Storage is the easiest place to get chips in my experience. Even in foam I have had to get creative and do some trial and error before finding how certain models need to stand/lie in the tray to keep them from rubbing in some spots. Lots of great choices for foam if you aren't already using it. The official Guild Ball Battle Foam Bag is great and I have a lot of friends that use it with no issue. I personally use a Citadel case with the zigzag foam because they sent me an extra one and they run like $160 and I just couldn't justify the money on another case with that one empty.

 

If Lamian Medium doesn't work for you I know some guys use a mat varnish out of a spray can though I don't have a good recommendation on that front as I don't use any, I feel like I cover less of the model with aerosol.

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Wash models first - this gets rid of any mould release agent.

Then prime using undercoat.  I use Halfords (car parts shop if you're not from the UK), but most model shops sell undercoat/primer. Use White/Grey/Black depending on your painting style.

Paint as required. I suggest you glue the model to something to avoid getting greasy fingers on them as you paint.

Paint on Gloss varnish. I use Ronseal Clear Gloss varnish - quick drying.  You can use spray varnish but I get fewer problems painting it on.

Use Matt varnish over the top if the gloss effect is not to your liking. I use Army Painter matt, but dull cote and other's are available.

Storage. I put metal washers of the appropriate size under the bases and then store in a plastic box with magnetic sheet on the bottom.  Better than foam as the models never get into contact with anything to damage them. NOTE. This is not suitable for travel by air etc., only via vehicle.

Hope that helps.

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Only thing I can add to the already great advice is that multiple coats of varnish provides more protection - for a gaming model, I usually use two layers of gloss and then a thin coat of matte to take the shine off.

 

I like the magnet idea (keep meaning to use it), back in the day it wasn't so bad but as models get more elaborate, spindly, and big it's harder and harder to get them into foam without rubbing them raw over time!

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For my metal models I coat them in Citadels Ard Coat, followed by Army Painters Anti Shine. The Ard Coat really needs at least 24 hours to fully cure, if I put the anti shine on sooner it seems to stay slightly tacky forever. Still get the odd chip when the model gets used a lot, but it's not too infuriating. 

Plastic or resin models tend to keep their paint on better so I usually spray them with a matte varnish and be done with it.

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I'd heard of using the Citadel Lahmian Medium to seal in transfers or thin down paints but didn't know it worked as a varnish. Is it like a thinner but less shiny version of varnish?

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For metal miniatures I've started to use etch primer, like you would use on a car body. My understanding is that it chemically eats away at the surface of the metal so bonds a lot better than other primers. Either way, seems to be holding up so far.

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1 minute ago, JS said:

For metal miniatures I've started to use etch primer, like you would use on a car body. My understanding is that it chemically eats away at the surface of the metal so bonds a lot better than other primers. Either way, seems to be holding up so far.

Huh... I'd always assumed it would burn off some of the detail because of the etch. I guess not, if it's working for you? 

 

Thats my new thing for today :D

 

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14 minutes ago, Mako said:

Huh... I'd always assumed it would burn off some of the detail because of the etch. I guess not, if it's working for you? 

 

Thats my new thing for today :D

 

If it has, I haven't noticed. I'm not the best painter but you can look at my vOx and vBrisket to judge the level of detail in the sculpt that remains ie. faces. 

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Sure doesn't seem to have done them any harm! Definitely learned something new today.

It may well get a test run when I next need to replace my airbrush primer...

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