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Anphiarus

I love Guild Ball miniatures!!!

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9 hours ago, Anphiarus said:

Finally a big thank you to Pete for recommending myself to Ritch in the first place, much appreciated buddy!

No worries my Friend (:

These Blacksmiths are Amazing!

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On 29/4/2016 at 6:16 PM, Anphiarus said:

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I know it's a long time ago but would you have more photos of the team? it's amazing :)

I would love to see kat and Vkat :wub:

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Thank you all so very much for the kind words regarding the Blacksmiths.

@TanE Please do copy the Farris pose, I can send you some additional pictures if you'd like to see her from different angles.

@Chapuzas Thank you! I may have some more pictures of the team stored somewhere which I'd be happy to send to you. I wasn't asked to do Kat or Vet Kat (Vet Kat wasn't out at that time) but if I'm ever asked to complete the team i'll be sure to share some pictures.

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Amazing work again. I saw these over Facebook and I didn't realize at the time you'd altered the pose, I remember thinking "wow that looks so much better painted up than I remember" but now I realize it's the re-pose! Also the paints on that blacksmith team were simply wicked. Anvil especially, how'd you managed that beard? I've been trying to paint blonde for a long time and I never quite get it. 

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Had a little time away from painting of late due to catching what felt like the plague. Now that I'm past the worst of coughing up my lungs I've got back to throwing so paint about. More Pirates you say? well here you go! 5 more of the Union all done and until the pictures of the Pride model I thought the last, Yay! I get to do another coin base :huh:.

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Here's a couple of pics of the green stuff  work.

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Rage was a challenge this time around, the head I had to work with was a slightly larger scale so I had to bulk him out quite a bit and sculpt on some different arms but I'm pretty happy with the way he turned out.

On 1/9/2018 at 9:11 AM, Furnace said:

Amazing work again. I saw these over Facebook and I didn't realize at the time you'd altered the pose, I remember thinking "wow that looks so much better painted up than I remember" but now I realize it's the re-pose! Also the paints on that blacksmith team were simply wicked. Anvil especially, how'd you managed that beard? I've been trying to paint blonde for a long time and I never quite get it. 

My apologies for the delay of my reply. For Anvil's beard I did a basecoat of Dheneb Stone (GW foundation paint).I gave it a light wash 50/50 water and Agrax Earthshade, once that dried I used neat Agrax Earthshade in the deepest recesses. After that I highlighted the beard using Dheneb Stone and adding white in for further highlights. I hope that helps you out a bit if you've not already worked something out, The colours I've used are out of production but I'm sure you can find similar colours from GW or other ranges.

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Apologies for the picture spam but I've had a lot to catch up on of late, this time around I was asked to complete the Farmers team for a Mr David Cameron. Given David's namesake he decided on a little conversion for the Pig goal, other than that the models are as stock barring the rebase.

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Hey @Anphiarus those farmers look really nice. Did you notice that the eyes are better sculpted in the second box than the first or did you do anything to fix them? I'm painting the first box of farmers right now and they just seem to have sockets. 

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Sick work! Ploughman (giggidy) looks especially good. He looks quite menacing. How you manage to paint eyes so well into these minis is beyond me. I just opt for the eye shadows. Spectacular work once again! Also it's a pretty big merit you can make the pvc models look so good. 

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On 28/02/2018 at 5:02 PM, Zerachial said:

Hey @Anphiarus those farmers look really nice. Did you notice that the eyes are better sculpted in the second box than the first or did you do anything to fix them? I'm painting the first box of farmers right now and they just seem to have sockets. 

I can confirm the second box does indeed have fully sculpted eyes on them so its most certainly an easier set to work with.

 

Just a quick update. I've not been painting much guild ball of late but I am still tinkering away on a few projects, here's a little group shot of some Brewers I've been messing with.

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And the award for best commission requested by a Kiwi goes to david cameron. Great work. Love the Friday conversion and you have the Luckiest Lucky around...

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Hello again, it's been a little while since I've updated things on here but life has a funny way of getting in the way of our hobby at times.

I've still been pottering way on some of the Brewers and I thought I'd share my process for doing the tartan. Now this little guide is what worked for me and I'm sure you may find a few guides that may be better suited (and worded for that matter :lol:) but I think it may be of help to some. The colours I've used can pretty much be swapped out for any others that you may fancy for your team.

Firstly I undercoated the tartan with Vile Green (citadel colour) once I got a good coat it was time to lay down the first lines of the pattern. This I did freehand but you can use a soft leaded pencil to help map it out. As I'm sure you're aware there are many folds on most models clothes so with that in mind I chose to put the first lines (scaly Green, old citadel colour) going in the same direction as those folds. This not only helps with making it easy for the painting but it also helps giving the cloth that depth you need as the further you go along with the pattern the flatter it can look, this is purely down to the fact that you can't highlight as you normally would.

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With the first set of lines done I would normally move onto the second set, creating that square pattern. For this though I wanted to show how I go about adding in some shadows to give it a 3 dimensional look, not a flat area with a pattern on it. First thing I do when tackling this is to paint the model upside down (models feet pointing up, not me painting whilst doing a headstand :lol:). With the model upside down I can add shadows as if I was highlighting, targeting the upper edges with a glaze of a warm brown, it's important the glaze is kept nice and thin and built up over a few layers. As I mentioned before, this step I would normally do once the whole pattern was completed but I feared it would show up as much it does now.

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The next step was to do the intersecting lines to create the square pattern, the most important part of this for me is to keep the line the same width apart as the first set otherwise you will have different sized squares across the model, again you can use a soft leaded pencil to aid you at this point. At this stage it's still easy enough to tidy up any uneven lines with your basecoat colour.

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This next step is to paint a small square where each of the lines cross each other, I did this by mixing a small amount of black into Scaly green. 

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You want mores lines to paint you say? Well here you go :huh:. This step is to paint a small (Scaly green again) line either side of the main lines, you'll see that I do one set all around the model before I tackle the other, this is just to break up the process and make it a little easier as you go (not that painting lots of little lines is easy). You can of course use the pencil as a guide for your lines.

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The final stage of the pattern is to mix your base colour (Vile Green) and some white to give you an off white colour of your choice. This colour will be used to paint a thin line in the middle of your main lines creating another set of squares across the model, as yo can see in the above picture I have marked out the first area for this line as a marker.

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With both sets of the off white lines you should have something a bit like this. This is the stage I would add a few more glazes (Agrax Earthshade watered down) to help emphasise the folds of the cloth using the same process as described before.

I know this isn't the easiest of things to do at all but with a little help from a pencil and keeping your colour palette pretty limited you can give yourself a better chance of success. Please feel free to ask any questions if I've not explained things well enough and I can amend this post accordingly.

 

Here's a pic or two of the rest of the ones I've finished

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