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@bubbahoteph There will be an official set out next year (announced at Christmas). As I mention above, the Ristuls Market set is good for obstructions. Hidden Forest recently did a neoprene set on Kickstarter which looks pretty good for travel terrain. It's designed for Warmahordes, but as it's terrain I don't think it makes much difference - walls and forests can be any size from a brick to a sea of redwoods.

On my progress, I've made a set of individual trees for Frostgrave which have come out really well. Next I'm going to be making a base of the right size for Guild Ball using the Frostgrave trees for size, sand it and see how the sand-mix warps the base. If it's ok, I'll sort the Guild Ball trees (no snow, Oak/Poplar/traditional style as opposed to evergreens) and put it together. This one will be trickier to transport as I don't think the trees will fit in my tin...

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@Yeti, I've had not issues transporting my walls. The magnets hold them in place pretty well, and they are small so it's not that great a weight anyway.

Back to our theme!

WOODS - Forest

NOcud9l.jpg

I enjoyed this one quite a bit. All made with cork tiles, sand and PVA (and some 20 year old trees I bought when I first started playing 40k). I was very worried about the base as I thought the sand would make it warp, but the new pack I opened had a very shiny side which added to rigidity, and while the sand mix was setting, I put some weights into each of the tree spaces to hold it down. Seems pretty good so far, and I got a nice smooth coverage across the base. The grass and meadow flowers break it up without causing the base to become too lumpy/uneven to place models (they are quite squishable).

Earlier in the week I bought some fir trees for Frostgrave as a tester for this cork tile method. As they are far more modern, the fir trees actually came with a trunk modelled onto them, so I had to try and replicate that on my ancient wire twists. I forgot to take a picture of the finished trunk, but you can see the first step in the collage. I wrapped masking tape (cut in half lengthways) around the top of the wire until it got to a suitable thickness, then soaked it with watered down PVA. Once that had dried, I painted it in Citadel Black Primer, brushing down the trunk. My primer pot has begun to separate, so the paint is quite paste like, which worked out brilliantly, as it left thick raised streaks and bumps where I slapped it on. After a base coat of dark brown, those streaks left raised ridges that give a great bark effect when dry brushed in a lighter brown.

I very pleased with how the forest came out in the end, as it's not too raised or bumpy to play on, and the trees are removable to give space for models or be used as barriers in their own right. Problem now is, how the hell do I store and transport them? I might be able to stick some magnets inside the bottom of the tree bases to hold them still in my tin, but the tin is small so I'd likely have to take the field out to make space for the 3 trees (the forest base is so thin and flat it can easily go on top of everything else). If anyone has a decent sized, deep, rectangular, high-iron content biscuit tin they want to donate...
 

Next - CABBAGE PATCH! or that promised photo of my terrain tin;)

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Thanks, @KoutetsuKaigun. One of my friends is moving house, and he returned a big box of crappy old scenery I left there years ago when we still played 40k and Warhammer. Most of it went in the bin, but I did find another 4 trees stuck in the top of an egg box, so I had to use them. I heard that forests where the least seen piece of terrain on Guild Ball fields, so it had to be done.

Took my terrain to the Norfolk Spring Open at the weekend. I didn't get to play on the table it was laid out on unfortunately, but I did get to play several great opponents and experience Brewers and Engineers for the first time (didn't get to see much of the Engineers as my opponent brought Gutter, so Midas spent the game chasing down and murderizing his entire team with Scything Blow. It was the last game, so he could always claim fatigue for that lapse ;)). Good fun, won 3/4 and got 6th. 2nd game vs. Butchers was a mess for me - 3 turns with neither side gaining any VPs, then Vitriol misses 2 shot on goal in 2 successive turns (one with 3 dice 5+ TN, then with 5 dice 5+ TN) before getting brutalized by Shank and Tenderizer. I ended up losing two more players and then clocking out, only killing his dog in return. Worst thing was that, looking at the table afterwards, those 4 VPs for the goal I didn't get would have upped my points difference by 4 and dropped his by 4, and so would have got me into 3rd place instead of him! Nice guy, though, deserved his win.

Anyway, back to the thing at hand... pictures of stuff!

UJtuRh9.jpg

I had to use my larger terrain tin for the tournie, as my little tin just doesn't have space for the trees. This one has a lower iron content so the magnets don't hold as strongly as the other, but as long as I don't sling my bag around the bits seem to hold fine.

78toEOi.jpg

My new, awesome Bendy Boards Mob Football Tray! Last tournie, I had an awful time moving all my stuff between tables (great tournie, I was just unorganised). This made it so much easier on Saturday. Everything except my INF and rulebook fit in this, and the INF don't only because I insist on carrying the entire tub of 150 glass beads around so I can use the lid to keep spent INF in! I was able to pick it up from Lee from Bendy Boards on the day, and spent most of my 1st opponents activations hammering different parts together!

Another tournie this weekend, then Guild Ball frenzy will tail off a little for a while (until Salute!) so don't know when my cabbage patch will get finished.

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@flaming_ewoks You sort of need a goal - there must be a clear 50mm diameter marker of some sort in the middle of the 6" line. On a marked out mat like the official mats, that circle is already marked for you, so you might not need a physical marker, but on a plain board you will need something, and it also helps to remind you that the goal counts as a barrier that block movement and the path of the ball.

Goals give you a chance to add individuality and uniqueness to your team or, as GBInformer show you, add some branding. It's a great chance to show some creativity and people love seeing other's goal designs.

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I'm back!

It's summer holidays here in the UK so I'm off work for the next few weeks, and after a great Open Day at Athena in Norwich, I've felt more interested in making some terrain! While considering my cabbage patch, I found an awesome little website called Warbases.co.uk that does a nice range of MDF wargames accessories and a very good range of animals. As I've said before, I'm going for a slightly farm-themed terrain set, and where would a farm be without animals!

CHICKEN COOP - Barrier or Obstruction

cTAodqs.jpg

This is a simple MDF kit from Warbases, with the 3 included Chickens (I bought more...). Mounted on a 3" cork base and covered with my usual bird sand mixed with PVA and water. From the front of the ramp/walkway to the back of the coop is exactly 2" so it could be an obstruction, but as I wanted to mount it on a bases and have chickens around it, Organised Play rules would really make this a barrier. It's a shame you can only have 1 barrier on an OP table, as they are often the easiest and most fun to make.

 

BONUS FIELDS REDUX - Rough Ground

FuT9sAd.jpg

I've never been able to play with my field, as my regular opponent has pointed out that the OP rules state it should be no more than 6" in any direction and my 1st attempt was 6" square, so too big. This is a redo, started with a 6" circle on cork, then using some maths formulas to work out the biggest square I could make (about 4.25" square, so round that down to a little less than 4" to give me a border to work with). Much smaller (forgot to give a comparison shot of the two fields, maybe that's for the future) but maybe this will actually get used. As I said last time I made a field, very easy to make.

Cabbage patches might take a while, as I forgot how badly cardboard warps when you use it with PVA. The fields were fine, as the rubber matting doesn't give a crap and won't shrink, but the cardboard ridging I'm using has pulled the cork around a bit and keeps rising up the edges. I have enough materials to have another go (probably use UHU if I try again, I'm told that doesn't warp things too much), but it's a pain in the arse after all the cutting and sanding of the cork bases. Hopefully by the end of the summer (I am away for a week right in the middle which will slow down my progress quite a bit).

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Wow, been a looooong time since I posted here (I've noticed I seem to get interested in modelling around the summer holidays every year). Come back to update images (stupid Photobucket removing free 3rd party hosting).

I have a question - although I promised Cabbages (and they will come, just gotta work out how to apply the cabbages - should they be widely spaced or removable? Both difficult), the patches will add another 2 areas of rough ground, which is 2 more than I really need. What I DON'T have is an area of fast ground, which I've struggled with ideas for. The best is probably a patch of slick mud, possibly with a pig wallowing at the edge (again, should it be removable? How can I do it?).

The question: how do you do mud? I'm making terrain on the cheap, so I don't really want suggestions like Woodland Scenics water resin stuff unless you can show me a link to something for sale in the UK CHEAP. I've wondered about polyfilla mixed with PVA & water, then painted with PVA & brown paint, with wash & gloss over the top. Any better ideas?

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@Siberys I'm sort of imagining a muddy puddle that pigs would wallow in, so I think it'll be more gloopy and tacky-looking than a flat base. I'll have to experiment.

Finally! They are complete (only took 2 days of gluing and painting in the end)

CABBAGE PATCH - Rough Ground

RkbQYTu.jpg

Simple build really - 6" diameter cork circle, cut into two shapes (to ensure within size criteria), carefuly peal apart some thick corrugated cardboard to give you some ridges, cut to shape and affix to cork, brush over (in one direction) thinned polyfilla for texture, traditional bird-sand-mixed-with-PVA-and-water round the edge for the base. Cabbages are paper roses from Hobbycraft with the leaves removed and the outer ring of petals flattened, then drenched in watered down PVA, painted green, washed, with a yellow highlight. And yes, that is a chicken on the edge. Always chickens!

Problem is, you can't really place models in the middle of it, so it's not really usable as-is. If I was doing it again, I'd either put the cabbages on removable pins or, if I had the time and money, magnetise them all so they could be removed as needed. Bit extravagant for a piece of scenery though. I'd also make the cabbages run in lines going along the ridges rather than perpendicular to them - only realised it looked odd after I'd stuck them all down; dry-fit looked OK, but that might have been because of uncut wire stems changing how it looked.

Anyway, good exercise, will look good in a corner of the pitch where it won't get used, and I still have the other side of the circle I could either do as a souped-up magnetic patch, or paint up as furrowed earth to swap in for the patch (they are the same footprint) if a model wanted to move onto it.

BONUS CABBAGE - Harvest Marker

AGLg5K3.jpg

My first harvest marker! 2nd will be the pumpkin ball from the team box (I have 2 balls based to fit my terrain, which is all farm themed, as you all probably realise). Any ideas for more? I have a spare pig or two, but wonder if 'harvesting' a pig partway through a match might be a bit much... Did think I could try modelling a chicken nest under a bush with some green stuff eggs as another. Anyone have any small barrels or baskets I could have? I'll be at Wyldhammer if anyone wants to donate :rolleyes:

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You could use the same technique (gloss varnish over painted surface) on a base you've added "muck" to using green stuff or similar.

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Yeah, think that's what I'm gonna have to do, just not sure how to do the muck. Think I'm going to try polyfilla and PVA first to give me a (hopefully) shapeable gritty gloop, then paint and gloss. Probably have a removable pig on the edge.

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I use PVA and Sand for basing; if you let it dry for a little bit it's certainly shapable, but I'd be careful how much grit you use. How fine is polyfilla?

EDIT: Ah, it's drywall plaster. I imagine that should work fine.

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I think polyfilla might be called spackle in the US - used for filling small holes or cracks in walls. It's not that fine, but I have a tub that's basically just for modelling so happy to experiment.

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At last! It is complete!

PIGGY MUD PIT - Fast Ground

FLzeqlX.jpg

Thank the gods for Escalation leagues! Months of faffing and thinking and no actual doing, my 1st one-off Hidden Agenda in the Wyldstorm Escalation league is to make a piece of themed terrain. Bang, I know what I'm doing and get it done in 4 days (lots of drying time, and even more thinking).

Mud 'effect' is the method I'd planned out before - pollyfilla mixed with some PVA and a little water (my filla is drying out a little). Smeared over the base quite thickly, it was soft enough to spread smoothly, but viscous enough to stay in shape once manipulated with a toothpick. If I was doing this again, I'd try and spread it closer to the edges of the plateau (flat section rather than the bevelled edges), but for a quick (for me) go, I'm very pleased.

#I definitely wanted a pig on there to keep the farm theme, and it complements my other models (I have a proxie base with a pig on it, and vKat and Grange both have piglets on their bases). The pig needed to be removable though, as the fixed nature of my cabbages has made me avoid using the cabbage patch. This way, the pig can be removed if a model needs to be placed where it is, and if I didn't like the finished product, was very easy to recover.

I spread the gloss on the morning of the Escalation meet-up and it didn't dry fully in about 8 hours - far too thick! In the end I had to leave it with a lamp less than an inch above to heat up the gloss that wasn't drying.

 

Next - HAYSTACK! Again inspired by a Hidden Agenda...

UUBMz4q.jpg

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Hey, an update! The Haystack became a goal-post rather than terrain, but the principle still works. I'd planned to add a fox to the bottom of my goal, so made a prototype haystack goal for the Escalation league, meaning I didn't take any work in progress pictures :unsure: When finished, it turned out there is absolutely no space on the base for anything other than the Haystack (if you want it bigger than a human model, which clearly you would - it's a stack, not a bale). So this time I'm going to post an image of the finished article (some of you will have seen it in The Goal Post Thread) and a link to the article that inspired it in the first place, with some notes on construction.

HAYSTACK - Barrier

iq8YCmyl.jpg

I followed the advice from this article in making the Haystack. Very simple to build - two rectangles of door mat back to back, watered down PVA all over, roll it in chopped up brush from the door mat, repeat the PVA & rolling, then either leave natural or spray with some straw-coloured paint and drybrush Bleached Bone/Ushabti Bone/some bone colour. You might not want to water down the PVA too much as I had large puddles of it under the base while leaving it to dry, which was a bit of a pain. The fuzziness on the brush came from me trying to seal them on with spray on seal, which did not work as I planned :angry: but I'm not unhappy with the results (won 2 Best Goal awards with it so far, so clearly no-one else cares :lol:).

The pitchfork is from the old (now released for Malign Portents) Zombie sprue, with the hand and arm carved off. It's just stuck in between the brush in the top, so is removable, allowing me to transport easier and to reposition as I feel like every time I set up. It does get knocked out as I reach over the goal quite often, but it looks great.

 

Next - PROXY BASES!

Already made, but the 50mm and 30mm need a touch up, so I'll take some photos once I get them on the painting mat.

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