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  1. Today
  2. New, Shiny Rookie Cards!

    So what the hel is a double KD result? Do you just apply KD 2 times to the same player? SFG please explain
  3. Harry?

    A card is (at retail) cheaper than a model and there are hundreds of MTG cards and dozens of GB models.
  4. Veteran Honour -- 2017 Steam Con model

    Fisher's reel - Hag Would be a super cool ability for Farmers!
  5. Blacksmiths in Kick About

    As has been said many times it's two masters and one apprentice.
  6. Get a big brush (does actually help, honest). You can get a lot more done on a bust, because of the larger scale. But that does mean building up more complex colours is kind of important, so it needs even more layers of even thinner paint. And a lot of focus on the face, glazing colours in around the eyes, on the cheeks and forehead etc. The bigger brush helps reduce the number of strokes and give you a smoother finish The eyes are also more important - you can paint them with more detail, gloss them, even a dot of white for reflected sun. It’s all about making the face look alive, as there’s nothing else to draw the eye from it. Which probably doesn’t help, but I’m kind of new to busts myself - this will be the third I’ve painted, and one of the other two was a cat person so I did fur all over the face instead of skin
  7. Colorado Guild Ball Master Thread

    I'm down in Colorado springs and would also suggest joining the Colorado Guild ball Facebook group here https://www.facebook.com/groups/481428382030383/ I'm not sure 100% sure how large the community up in Ft. Collins is, but we have a regular half dozen in the springs with 2-4 more occassionals due to school. If we see events up there we'd definitely be willing to travel! (only a couple hours)
  8. Hey all. Just copied my Facebook post on this subject below. Just wondering what tactics you guys find effective against blacksmiths as well as your thoughts on the below! Thanks! 😊 "Having played admittedly only my first game into blacksmiths, using my masons for only the second time (I usually play hunters). My experience is obviously limited. My friend was also only using his blacksmiths for the first time. I feel they're... strong. Very strong. And that's only with the first box of six. I'd be interested to know what more experienced players think. Are these guys gonna be hit with the nerf bat? Particularly things like piledriver. +3 net hits?! Not limited to once per turn?! Brick was basically deleted in one activation! (admittedly partly because I hadn't realised the danger) but still, 19 boxes and tough hide! Also being able to tackle from range?! They can hit hard and have great kick stats and high armour. Where's the weakness? Is it just my inexperience with both teams? By contrast I won my first masons game against a friend's first farmers game last week. The difference seems huge! I'd hate to see power creep start to err... creep into such a well balanced game. I'm not saying it necessarily is. Just interested in others' opinions 😊"
  9. Black Friday Sales

    Buckwheat is a one-piece metal miniature ... very impressive technically! No tricky glueing with this one. Hearth is in two parts, but very easy to put together.
  10. Going to be running a Kick about league shortly and wondering if there is anything official as far as progression from week to week with Blacksmiths. My thought would be first week with three players would be one Mater and two apprentices. week two with 4 two masters and two apprentices and then full 6 would obviously be with standard selection. Thoughts?
  11. Any advice on using hammer?

    A few quick ones: 1. Don't over-extend him - it might seem fun to have him charge 9" to kill a model deep in the opposing side or on the flanks, but remember he needs help from someone within 6" (thank God they expanded that from 4") to be powerful next round, so unless you can send someone there to carry INF for him next turn, he's stuck. Only do it if you have a chance for a 6 point activation by stealing the ball, and killing the target (either this turn or get enough MP for next turn kill). 2. Positioning of your INF carriers is key - always make sure you have someone within 6" of him at the end of the turn who can carry at least 2 INF (usually for Iron Fist and sometimes Punishing March). 3. Watch out for Control Teams - Morts and Hunters can ruin Hammer if you're not careful. Make sure you always have an out if you get hit by a Pinned, Puppet Master, or a Rough Ground+Fire combo. Always think ahead on what your opponents can do to him because of his low DEF. 4. Hammer is not invincible - he's hard to kill, but a DEF/ARM 3/1 is pretty easy to kill by killy teams like Butchers and Brewers. I once had Hammer kill 1 model per turn and get killed afterwards each time against Butchers. If you're ahead in the points race, then go for it. But if you're not, then it might not be a good trade because no one else on your team can kill like Hammer. 5. Always think about where the ball is - Hammer might be a killing machine, but per my point #1, he also scores a lot if the ball is anywhere near the opponent's goal, especially with his knockback and pushes. Hope that helps!
  12. Protect Your Balls

    Maybe I'm not explaining what I mean correctly/clearly -- forcing a KS with the template such that what would normally be the ball path is pointing directly down the pitch/towards the far board edge, that way the scatter will always put the ball nearer the enemy's half than the simple drop would. The only "weirdness" is if the ball scatters off the pitch, but that would put it even closer to the enemy's goal, so...
  13. Yesterday
  14. The Angel/Salt bust looked nice. Any tips or guides you'd recommend for painting on this larger scale?
  15. Black Friday Sales

    I'd quite like the Christmas Buckwheat, but don't want Hearth, and nothing else appeals as I either have it or don't want it (not interested in Dark Souls or Resident Evil). The Mega Bundle looks good if you are interested in Masons and Brewers, but I think they are slow and don't really work to show off the game well to new players. I hope SFG continue to support and encourage new players by making 6-player plastic boxes of the original guilds...
  16. Black Friday Sales

    I just want Skulk. The rest of the swag stuff will just rot in a box or get given away. Would have liked to be able to buy him separately. Might make some useful spot prizes for local tourny next year but hopefully won't make him too expensive :/
  17. Shoemerang interacting with Clone

    Having Bolt that close is a dead Bolt I just killed him with Shark and 2 crowd out's...
  18. Shoemerang interacting with Clone

    This doesn't feel right. Call me out of touch and old fashioned if you wish. And I have bought the box with Bolt in it. Where is the "risk & reward" talked about by Jamie P in this?
  19. Black Friday Sales

    In your inbox if you signed up for the newsletter
  20. Protect Your Balls

    We considered this very same idea but elected to go with a drop as took away the option to hide and move the ball around with a player that has no influence. I don't want anyone hiding in the corner with the ball because that's no fun. The fear of a scatter might work better, even if there is a chance to gain an edge using the line. Hopefully someone plays this and I can iron out the inevitable speed bumps.
  21. Protect Your Balls

    That works. If you want to discourage voluntary movement behind the line a bit more you could force a kickscatter with the template parallel to the goal line; the randomness/loss of control would act as a disincentive.
  22. Protect Your Balls

    It's only been the two of us so far and I knew I'd miss something. The ruling on "voluntarily leaving the pitch" would lead me to a train of thought like: "If a friendly model is dodged, pushed, placed behind the goal line by an enemy model/player that model retains possession of the ball marker." "If a friendly model is dodged or pushed behind the friendly goal line by a friendly model/player the model must drop the ball along the path the model traveled so that no portion of the ball is behind the friendly goal line." I'd be open to suggestions on friendly placement. Off the top of my head I'd think something like: "If a friendly model is placed behind the friendly goal line then draw line directly between the model's new and previous placements. The ball marker must be placed along this line so that no portion of the ball marker is behind the friendly goal line." Added these to the above special rules until I can find a more eloquent way to phrase a global rule.
  23. Blacksmiths (:

    Cheers (:
  24. Protect Your Balls

    Sounds really interesting. One immediate question: How does this interact with (1) dodges, (2) pushes, (3) placement?
  25. Blacksmiths (:

    Great colour scheme!
  26. Mako's Expert Procrastination Thread

    A bit late to the party, but thank you, this is very handy as I'm re-basing my Masons from the starter set. So far I've cut a couple off above the base, but this feels much better. Thanks!
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